![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:23 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I'm looking to put an air intake system on my 2.0t Genesis Coupe (similar to the one above) and being pretty uneducated on the subject, I want to ask should I get a cold air intake or a short ram intake. Also which cold/short intake model and brand should I get.
I've done a little research and so far I've seen the following:
With a cold air intake, one gets colder air which combusts better than hot air, but at the same time is harder to install, usually a bit more expensive, and harder to install/clean.
With a short ram intake, one gets hotter air than a cold air intake but more air than the regular air box and its easier to install/maintain.
Compounding my dilemma, I also found an article that said with a turbo charged engine a cold air intake is nullified because the air is heated by the turbo anyway, which would make the SRI more appealing with its better airflow. Is this BS or is their legitimacy in this? As you can see I'm having a tough time deciding. So....what should I get?
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:25 |
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"I also found an article that said with a turbo charged engine a cold air intake is nullified because the air is heated by the turbo anyway, which would make the SRI more appealing with its better airflow"
Based on this, I would say SRI. I have no knowledge on this topic but considering the above statement...yeah
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:28 |
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The air is heated by the turbo, but hot air will come out hotter than cold air will.
Had an unshielded SRI on my STI. Heat Soak on hot days was very noticeable.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:30 |
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I had a CAI on my 02 SVT Focus, I removed it and put on a Short Ram because it was very close to the ground and I was concerned about ground moisture being vacuumed up into the engine. I live in wisconsin where we had a fair amount of rain, and will have a fair amount of snow. I did not really notice a difference between the CAI and SRI, the most noticeable change was the sound...the SRI is slightly deeper In my opinion.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:30 |
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Let's pretend I don't exactly know what Heat Soak is...*wink*
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:32 |
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I've always thought they do give better throttle response/intake noise, but that could have been placebo effect.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:33 |
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Keep it stock and get exhaust for sound IMO.
Or because your car is turbo'd, save up for a ecu.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:34 |
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Oh, sorry.
Basically, it refers to what happens when an intake is sucking in air from the engine bay, which gets significantly heated by the block itself. As your engine temperature rises, so does your intake temperature, and power drops off significantly.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:35 |
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DAMN, you beat me.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:36 |
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Oh now I got it, thanks.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:40 |
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That's the second time in an hour I posted those to someone.
I just happened to have 'em at the ready.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:41 |
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There is some legitimacy, and it comes not from benefits of a new style, but reduction that is made up from stock.
Most factory noise-cancelling intakes have baffles that reduce the noise of the incoming air, at the expense of air flow. Often times, these intakes will also have what is called "thermostatic" properies, where incoming air that is hotter than the engine flows faster than cold air into a cold engine, and helps warm it up. Likewise, an engine that is very hot should flow cool air better in the intake. This helps regulate the engine's temperature better.
A cold-air intake streamlines this process by giving up the thermoregulation. It essentially is designed so the best flowing air is the air that is always cooler than the engine. This means that in hot, low pressure climates, they can give you a noticable (2-3%) boost in power. Fuel economy all depends on injector mapping and stuff like that, but sometimes you can see a bump there too. You lose the thermoregulation techniques, but gain the noise cancelling techniques.
On a turbocharged engine, (such as yours) a cold-air intake does pretty much nothing, because a tiny decrease in temperature before it arrives at the turbo is washed out by the vast changes in temperature after the turbo. Likewise, in cold weather, it may reduce the rate at which the engine warms up (including the oil!).
A short-ram intake is just like a CAI, except it doesn't have any thermoregulation properties at all. So, theoretically, it should flow better than a CAI in general (we're still talking very small gains) but neither warm, or cool, the intake charge. This means that a CAI may be able to flow better/cool the engine down in very hot circumstances, but under normal temperature (unless you have a really shitty radiator or always run very hot) the short ram intake would flow better. Another advantage of a short ram intake is that it often frees up some space in the engine bay for larger turbos or intercoolers, which is ultimately its best benefit.
This means that on your car, with a CAI, you have pretty much no performance gain in normal weather, and some performance gain in very hot driving, greatly increased noise.
A short ram intake gives you may a little boost in performance all-around, but diminishes as weather gets more hot, while also greatly increasing intake noise. You also have more space in the engine for more piping if necessary.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:42 |
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Do you track it?
If not, just get whatever is cheaper. It's not going to affect your performance THAT much, but turbo whoosh noises are awesome.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:44 |
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If I even thought I good manage putting an exhuast I would consider it, but I'm pretty mechanically challenged. On another note I looked for ECUs for my model but didn't see any. Do you know a company that makes them for 2013 model?
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:47 |
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Not yet, I'm working on a SCCA novice permit application, just waiting on an opportunity to get it witnessed or whatever its called
![]() 10/07/2013 at 13:52 |
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In that case, a CAI is probably better for the car, but don't expect it to do much for performance. At least not enough to be noticeable.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 14:01 |
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Errr, I've never had a turbo car. I just now thats something people with turbo cars do. But A quick check of the forums ( always a good place to go) say SFR or BTRcc.
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discussio…
![]() 10/07/2013 at 14:03 |
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Very true. If he's done nothing else to the car it will add nothing more than some response at best. But if he does more mods, it can be helpful to overcome air restrictions on the stock airbox.
![]() 10/07/2013 at 15:04 |
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Do a SRI, buy a cheap kit on ebay with all the pipes you need, and then buy a nice filter instead of the ebay one you got. My kit was $25 and included all parts needed (Aluminum tubes and everything) and just bought a nice K&N at autozone. Don't waste your money on name brand kits that cost hundreds. It's a tube and a filter. Build the tube yourself if you want. Just buy a real filter
![]() 10/08/2013 at 15:05 |
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at about 2:17 in the cold intake one there's some odd ass cupage
![]() 10/08/2013 at 15:39 |
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awkward...
![]() 10/09/2013 at 12:08 |
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Actually, heat soak is a bit different. It has more to do with the temperature of the intercooler (IC), or if you don't have one, the post turbo pipe, than the pre-turbo air temp.
Basically, the IC must be colder than the air coming in to it. Otherwise the air will leave the IC without being cooled. The temperature of the IC is dependent on a number of factors but the rate at which the IC can shed heat is critical. Size (bigger = better), airflow (more = better), and shielding (you don't want an IC next to an exhaust pipe) all play a factor.
The IC on my SPG is small and tucked away behind the oil cooler. After a few seconds, the IC gets really hot, i.e. soaked with heat, and stops cooling the air charge. My engine starts knocking and the the APC starts reducing boost to cool the intake temp.
You are correct though in that the hotter the air going in to the turbo, the hotter the air coming out. And the need for more intercooling.
![]() 10/09/2013 at 12:32 |
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Good to know! Thanks!